Central Vietnam - Hoi An (the city where I am going to leave all my money)

My last morning in Da Nang, I had another amazing breakfast, this time fish cake and noodles. Turns out that fish cake is one of the sausages I had eaten before (but not with my eggs and sausage breakfast).  And I tried the coffee again.  I still managed to be a doof by assuming they forgot my milk again.  The waiter patiently explained that the milk is under the coffee.  Oh, so I should stir!.  Just as well I am leaving.

The only bank I recognize in this country is HSBC so I walked to the only HSBC bank machine in Da Nang to take out some money because I knew there wasn't a machine in Hoi An.  I had calculated how much I would need but accidentally took out half (it is difficult to think in the millions). This may prove unfortunate as Hoi An is a shopping heaven but I get ahead of myself.

I found a grocery store on the way back to the hotel (totally no signage).  I had tasted a sauce at breakfast so I wanted to buy some.  It is pickled soy bean sauce.  I have learned that Tuong is sauce in Vietnamese.  Now I know three words, sauce, hill and rice.  I should be able to have some thrilling conversations soon enough! Actually, now that I think of it, I know hill in Cambodian.  There goes 33% of my vocabulary.  Damn!

Back to the hotel to attempt to pack yet again.  The disgusting box had to go, too much of a space sucker (I am losing the use of my U on my keyboard).  I will just have to risk some breakage.  Everything is packed so tightly, I can't see anything breaking unless it is while I am actually cramming it into the pack.

To the Yellow bus to Hoi An.  Again, I am an old pro now.  I found out there are more than one yellow bus but I did not get on any of them.  Yea me! The bus filled up and people use it for shipping so the aisle was full of boxes too.  It was a tight squeeze but I was on early so I just sat, bag at the side of the growing pile, and didn't move until the end of the line.

Moto to my hotel, Dream City.  It's ok.  My first task, do laundry.  I was down to my last shirt and undies.  It is quite cold in middle Vietnam.  I have had to wear a sweater in the evenings.  So, this means, my clothes are not drying quickly (damp undies and shirt this morning, aack).

Room 305

Room 305 redecorated

Next task, a slow wander to Randy's bookstore.  I had finished my second (and last) novel on the train.  I couldn't find a bookstore in Da Nang so I watched too much TV (although now I can say I have seen Princess Diaries, so there's a silver lining).   Randy's is on Cam Nam Island which is a very short bridge over the river away.  But it took me forever to reach the bridge because Hoi An is a huge market. So many stores and actual markets and restaurants.

Before I had even gone one block, I stopped in a crazy antiques store just because it looked so cool.  As I was looking around, I saw some books behind some plates.  I swear this is a trap.  Poor unsuspecting tourists see the books and attempt to move some plates only to end up breaking (and therefore buying) something because there is not a clear surface in the place to move the plates to .  But I managed to juggle plates and books and bought one which I don't even remember the name of at the moment. It is super dusty though.  I think I may be the first person to successfully pass through the plate gauntlet in at least a year.

Can you see the books on the shelves on the right?

This town is known for making clothes.  Every second shop is a tailor.  I seem to be in the very thick of the clothing district.  I need a suit, right?  I feel like I need a suit.  The stores are so pretty with all of their display models and bolts of a fabric.  Maybe a shirt or two?  Who can't use some shirts?  It's part of the cultural experience!

Eventually I made it to Cam Nam Island and Randy's bookstore.  I sold my book (I had dropped the first one along the way) and bought another obscure travel book (a guy travels the world in 1980, describing the prostitutes he meets along the way - so far it is weird, no Princess Diaries here).

Randy and his bookstore

Stopped at the market for dinner.  I ordered White Rose.  I didn't realize it at the time but that seems to be a famous Hoi An dish.  Like a shrimp dumpling with dried onions and some sort of Tuong.  It was amazing.  But small so I also ordered Vietnamese pancakes.  Also delicious.  The lady who made my food had to come around the counter to show me how to eat them.  I was just shoving them into my face as fast as I could dip them in the peanut sauce but she showed me that I was supposed to wrap them in rice paper with some greens.  Still good (but I secretly just wanted to just eat the pancake, they were that tasty).

White Rose

Vietnamese Pancakes

I found another bridge as the sun was setting.  This one to An Hoi Peninsula. There were so many people on the bridge, it looked like a DMV line, but over water.  I did not cross.  But apparently, the evening is when things start to happen here.  The city is awash with lanterns which all light up at night.  It is very pretty.  Like the dragon bridge breathing fire in Da Nang, I am missing the big event here as well.  On the full moon, the city cuts all electric lights and just uses the lanterns.  I'm sure that is beautiful.  But I will never know, at least not on this trip.

Selling cups and candles

I went back to my hotel fairly early.  I hadn't planned to be out as long as I was so I didn't have a sweater or enough water.  I took the long route (let's say on purpose) and found the covered Japanese bridge, another famous landmark.  Also crawling with people.  I vowed to get up early the next day (today) to be out before the hoards.

Next morning, I did not get up early.  I made it to free breakfast by 8:30.  Eggs!  No Vietnamese options.  Oh well, it is free. They included a sweet pancake that was very good.  It looks like a fried egg but the 'yolk' is custard and the 'white' is sweet pastry.  I want more.

So, I have mentioned my crappy Walmart capris but I don't think I have told you about my other pants.  I bought them at Value Village on 50% off day.  They fit like a dream.  Northern Reflections Basics Collection.  I am trashing them with my backpack.  There is already a hole in the bum. So, in a fit of weakness, I took the pants, still wet from laundry, to a tailor (Two Ladies, very highly rated on Trip Advisor) to see what it would cost to have a new pair made (remembering that I had spent $4 on the first pair).

So many swatches

I can't say what the pants are going to cost because (this is the weakness part), I ended up ordering a suit, two shirts, a dress and the pants.  How am I ever going to pack all of that!!!!  And I need to find another bank machine, PRONTO!  First fitting at 10am tomorrow.

While I was waiting for another opportunity to eat, I finally crossed over to An Hoi and wandered a bit.  Pretty much the same as the Hoi An side.  As I was walking along the river, a spa opened and the lady caught me.  Sure, a pedicure, why not!.  $2 for the pedicure.  $1 for the nail polish.  Future fungal treatments - priceless!

Back across the bridge.  In for a penny, in for a pound, I say.  I also bought some little dishes, a fish mug, a gift for Dottie for dealing with kitty (update later that evening, and for her kids, they are going to be soooo cute), and a few other more packable things. Oh yea, and a painting.   Back to three bags and the scorn of taxi/bus drivers.   I will have to pay for an extra bag on the Hue-Hanoi flight but I get two checked bags on the way back to Canada, thank the gods - and premium economy!. So I just need to get to Hanoi and then it is smooth sailing.

my new painting

I didn't buy any of these!

Covered Japanese Bridge, which I still haven't crossed

I also stopped for an egg coffee, a (Central?) Vietnamese specialty.  It is basically meringue on top of espresso.  It was good but cost 4 bucks so one is enough. And cinnamon ice cream on Rachelle's recommendation.  Um, yum!. Good call, Rachelle.  I may have to have this again.

Making my coffee.  It was like a meth lab in there but for coffee. 
This sort of fanciness might by why it cost $4

Egg coffee

me and my cinnamon ice cream

Ok, it is dinner time and I have more Hoi An specialties to find and eat.  I am heading out in my damp sweater.  I will add pictures and post later (unless I am too tired).

(Later that evening) 

I can't upload my pictures because this hotel has the WORST wifi.  It is open so I assume everyone on the block is using it.  Bahhhh.  Update - I am using another floor's wifi and it is working slightly better.

here are some random shots from the day

Anyway, quick finish to the day.  More food!  For dinner I ate Coa Lau, another Hoi An specialty.  This one didn't knock my socks off like the white rose and the pancake.  But I also had a fresh beer (made daily by each restaurant/bar) and it was good (of course).

I know! We all know what beer looks like but I liked the table. 
People put their unused passport photos under the glass.
(they say bring two but only take one at the border)

Wander, wander.  Lots of pictures of lanterns at night.  And boats in the river.  They release coloured paper cups with candles in them so it is very picturesque.  Photo, photo.  Another snack, this time a mango bun?  Mango something, it looked like a glob of dough.  My two favourite things, mango and globs of dough so I bought one.  It was definitely globby but not so much mangoy.  More like pistachios but I'm not complaining (except about how full I am).

Ok, a couple of updates. 
1.  My hair.  It is growing and now I have the same hairstyle as Seth Rogan. (less beard though)

2.  My clothes.  Heat + sweat + cotton = bad.  Everything I have is stretched to the point of unwearableness.  The necks on all of my t-shirts are so huge.  There are rules here about covering shoulders and knees to enter pagodas but I may have to check if boob-out is also a no-go because my shirts are not leaving much to the imagination.  I wore my damp sweater out tonight and now the sleeves are two inches past my fingertips.   I've already mentioned my falling-down capris.  Even my wonderful pants are baggy after a day out.

Ok, to bed and 1980s prostitutes (in the book, not real ones).